Conditioning Shampoo Bar Project
This recipe was formulated by Marie of Humblebee and Me. Learn more about Marie here.
These bars were inspired by Lush's shampoo bars, which contain small bits of conditioner bars inside. The first step is to create the conditoner bar, allow it to set up, then chop it up and mix it into a mixture of surfactants. It's designed to be extra gentle on hair, making it perfect for dry, curly, or damaged hair types.
Marie scented these bars with Wild Heather and Thyme Fragrance Oil, for a sophisticated blend of floral and herbs. A touch of mica adds colors to the bars - feel free to use whatever color mica you'd like!
The recipe creates a paste that can be hand-formed, pressed into a silicone or plastic mold, or machine pressed. In this video, Marie shows you how to do all three. Note - this project does not include a mold. Shop our silicone molds here, or plastic molds here, to complete the project.
What You Need:
Wild Heather and Thyme Fragrance Oil - Trial Size
Marula Oil - 4 oz
BTMS - 50 Conditioning Emulsifier - 2 oz
Deodorized Cocoa Butter Wafers - 1 lb
Stearic Acid - 1 oz
Optiphen Plus - 1 oz
Foaming Noodles - SCI - 1 lb
Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate - SLSA - 1 Jar
Kaolin Clay - 2 lbs
Dark Green Mica - 1 oz
Bubble Boost - CAPB - 1 lb
Curl Enhance Water Soluble Extract - 1 oz
Citric Acid - 1 lb
Recipe
INGREDIENTS:
- Wild Heather and Thyme Fragrance Oil - Trial Size
- Marula Oil - 4 oz
- BTMS - 50 Conditioning Emulsifier - 2 oz
- Deodorized Cocoa Butter Wafers - 1 lb
- Stearic Acid - 1 oz
- Optiphen Plus - 1 oz
- Foaming Noodles - SCI - 1 lb
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate - SLSA - 1 Jar
- Kaolin Clay - 2 lbs
- Dark Green Mica - 1 oz
- Bubble Boost - CAPB - 1 lb
- Curl Enhance Water Soluble Extract - 1 oz
- Citric Acid - 1 lb
EQUIPMENT:
Instructions
You will need:
Phase A - Conditioning Ingredients:
- 9.5 g. BTMS-50
- 19 g. Cocoa Butter
- 14 g. Stearic Acid
- 2.5 g. Marula Oil
- 0.75 g. Optiphen Plus
Phase B - Dry Ingredients:
- 200 g. Foaming Noodles - SCI
- 107.75 g. Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate - SLSA
- 81 g. Kaolin Clay
- 1.5 g. Dark Green Mica
Phase C - Liquid Ingredients:
- 46.25 g. Cocamidopropyl Betaine - CAPB
- 5 g. Wild Heather and Thyme
- 6.75 g. Optiphen Plus
- 5 g. Curl Enhance Water Soluble Extract
- 1 g. Citric Acid
Follow these steps:
EQUIPMENT PREP: Disinfect your utensils by dipping them in a 5% bleach water solution and allowing to dry. This includes mixing containers and any spoons or spatulas that may come in contact with your cleanser. Your products must be as free of germs, bacteria, and microbes as possible.
SAFETY EQUIPMENT: Working with SLSA and SCI can be irritating, as the powder can become airborne. Wear a mask or ventilator to prevent irritation. This is most important during steps 4 and 7.
1
Weigh the Phase A ingredients (9.5 grams of BTMS-50, 19 grams of cocoa butter, 14 grams of stearic acid, 2.5 grams of marula oil) into a small heat-resistant glass measuring cup. Gently heat in the microwave using short bursts.
2
Once the ingredients are melted and below 175 degrees F, quickly add 0.75 grams of Optiphen Plus.
3
Quickly pour the mixture into a small mold - don't worry about the shape, it will get chopped up later. Place the mold in the fridge to continue to quickly cool.
4
Weigh and combine Phase B (200 grams of SCI Foaming Noodles, 107.75 grams of SLSA, 81 grams of kaolin clay, and 1.5 grams of mica) into a bowl. Set Phase B aside.
5
Measure and combine Phase C (46.25 of CAPB, 5 grams of Wild Heather and Thyme, 6.75 grams of Optiphen Plus, 5 grams of Curl Enhance Water Soluble Extract, and 1 gram of citric acid) into a small container.
6
Remove the conditioner bar from the fridge. Unmold, and chop into small pieces. The biggest pieces should be no more than about 6mm or a quarter of an inch across, but most of them should be smaller than that.
7
Slowly pour the liquid Phase C ingredients into the dry Phase B ingredients. Mix together. Then add the chunks of Phase A. Begin to mix all the ingredients together - start with a spoon or spatula if you want, but you’ll need to switch to using your hands pretty quickly. Continue to mix together until a dough forms.
TIP: The dough will feel slightly crumbly, yet moldable. It should hold its shape when pressed together in your palm. If the dough feels too crumbly, slowly add drops of water. But be careful, a little extra moisture can go a long way. If the dough feels too wet, add very small amounts of kaolin clay.
8
To form into bars, you can either hand-press them, place them into a silicone or plastic mold, or use a machine press. If using a silicone or plastic mold, press the mixture firmly in the mold and place into the freezer for 1-2 hours before unmolding. Unmolding when they are very cold and firm will help release them from the mold easily.
9
Once molded, allow the bars to harden for 3 days. To use, massage into soaking wet hair to work up a luscious lather before rinsing out. Follow with a conditioner. Enjoy!
Photographer: Marie Rayma
Conditioning Shampoo Bar Project
- LEVEL Intermediate
- TIME 1 hour
- YIELD null
Project Description
These bars were inspired by Lush's shampoo bars, which contain small bits of conditioner bars inside. The first step is to create the conditoner bar, allow it to set up, then chop it up and mix it into a mixture of surfactants. It's designed to be extra gentle on hair, making it perfect for dry, curly, or damaged hair types.
Marie scented these bars with Wild Heather and Thyme Fragrance Oil, for a sophisticated blend of floral and herbs. A touch of mica adds colors to the bars - feel free to use whatever color mica you'd like!
The recipe creates a paste that can be hand-formed, pressed into a silicone or plastic mold, or machine pressed. In this video, Marie shows you how to do all three. Note - this project does not include a mold. Shop our silicone molds here, or plastic molds here, to complete the project.
You will need:
Phase A - Conditioning Ingredients:
- 9.5 g. BTMS-50
- 19 g. Cocoa Butter
- 14 g. Stearic Acid
- 2.5 g. Marula Oil
- 0.75 g. Optiphen Plus
Phase B - Dry Ingredients:
- 200 g. Foaming Noodles - SCI
- 107.75 g. Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate - SLSA
- 81 g. Kaolin Clay
- 1.5 g. Dark Green Mica
Phase C - Liquid Ingredients:
- 46.25 g. Cocamidopropyl Betaine - CAPB
- 5 g. Wild Heather and Thyme
- 6.75 g. Optiphen Plus
- 5 g. Curl Enhance Water Soluble Extract
- 1 g. Citric Acid
Follow these steps:
EQUIPMENT PREP: Disinfect your utensils by dipping them in a 5% bleach water solution and allowing to dry. This includes mixing containers and any spoons or spatulas that may come in contact with your cleanser. Your products must be as free of germs, bacteria, and microbes as possible.
SAFETY EQUIPMENT: Working with SLSA and SCI can be irritating, as the powder can become airborne. Wear a mask or ventilator to prevent irritation. This is most important during steps 4 and 7.
1
Weigh the Phase A ingredients (9.5 grams of BTMS-50, 19 grams of cocoa butter, 14 grams of stearic acid, 2.5 grams of marula oil) into a small heat-resistant glass measuring cup. Gently heat in the microwave using short bursts.
2
Once the ingredients are melted and below 175 degrees F, quickly add 0.75 grams of Optiphen Plus.
3
Quickly pour the mixture into a small mold - don't worry about the shape, it will get chopped up later. Place the mold in the fridge to continue to quickly cool.
4
Weigh and combine Phase B (200 grams of SCI Foaming Noodles, 107.75 grams of SLSA, 81 grams of kaolin clay, and 1.5 grams of mica) into a bowl. Set Phase B aside.
5
Measure and combine Phase C (46.25 of CAPB, 5 grams of Wild Heather and Thyme, 6.75 grams of Optiphen Plus, 5 grams of Curl Enhance Water Soluble Extract, and 1 gram of citric acid) into a small container.
6
Remove the conditioner bar from the fridge. Unmold, and chop into small pieces. The biggest pieces should be no more than about 6mm or a quarter of an inch across, but most of them should be smaller than that.
7
Slowly pour the liquid Phase C ingredients into the dry Phase B ingredients. Mix together. Then add the chunks of Phase A. Begin to mix all the ingredients together - start with a spoon or spatula if you want, but you’ll need to switch to using your hands pretty quickly. Continue to mix together until a dough forms.
TIP: The dough will feel slightly crumbly, yet moldable. It should hold its shape when pressed together in your palm. If the dough feels too crumbly, slowly add drops of water. But be careful, a little extra moisture can go a long way. If the dough feels too wet, add very small amounts of kaolin clay.
8
To form into bars, you can either hand-press them, place them into a silicone or plastic mold, or use a machine press. If using a silicone or plastic mold, press the mixture firmly in the mold and place into the freezer for 1-2 hours before unmolding. Unmolding when they are very cold and firm will help release them from the mold easily.
9
Once molded, allow the bars to harden for 3 days. To use, massage into soaking wet hair to work up a luscious lather before rinsing out. Follow with a conditioner. Enjoy!
Photographer: Marie Rayma